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【春之歌IV】沙漠之花 (Desert Flowers)(图)

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发表于 2010-4-6 21:42:50 | 只看该作者 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式

 

沙漠之花


1。绿色三月
 
三月来了,把大把的绿色洒向田野,抛上山坡,百花吐艳,百鸟鸣啭。春假到了,走入绿色,走向春天。想到羚羊谷加州罂粟花保护区 (Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve),加州罂粟花,独一无二,应该有自己的领地,耳听为虚,眼见为实,还真没去膜拜过呢。所以三个礼拜之前就上网预订了旅馆。

 

五号高速路边的景色


早晨八点半之前出发,下着中雨,沿着580号高速到了利弗莫尔 (Livermore) 和阿尔塔芒特山口 (Altamont Pass),春天轻柔的阳光就洒落在了绿色的山坡上,眼前的美艳不可方物,就赶忙驶入580号和5号州际高速交接处的休息区,停车,呼吸春天的气息,拥抱曼妙的绿色。这还不够,不久又看到一处观景点,就开上去了,高台观望,山坡起伏,绿连阡陌,无边无沿。三,四月是加州最美丽的月份;不经意间感到双臂和翅膀像听到了召唤,展翅欲飞,只是不知道什么时候长的翅膀。6个小时的路程,沿途风景优美,没有理由不在每个休息区,观景点,水果摊逗留嘛。既然出来玩就要学会放松。

 

高速公路上暂时空旷无人


 
2
。风雨三月
 
周三的路上车辆稀少,我们下午245左右就先到了羚羊谷加州罂粟花保护区,市区还要往东边一些。到了地方才知道天气预报没开玩笑,阵雨刚从这里经过,仍有大风呼啸不已。罂粟花非常敏感,遇到天阴,天冷,刮风,起雾,那花瓣儿就一个紧裹一个,抱成针状,花儿珍贵,自我保护意识很强。风力强劲,花儿在阴暗处抖嗦,此地不能久留;当然我们明天还会回来,在阳光明媚里鉴赏千万朵罂粟花。


 风大,天冷,花儿不开瓣


 
棕榈谷 (Palmdale)的雨下得还很急,住进旅馆时是下午315,肚子打响了午饭钟。打开电话号码薄,家乡自助餐馆 (Hometown Buffet) 冲入眼帘,这个连锁餐馆熟悉,曾经光顾过几次;人一旦饿了,就忘了曾经立下过今生不再光顾自助餐馆的誓言,进了那地方很难不饮食过量。挣扎出来时,差不多430了。天上的阵雨似乎想与我们同步,此时已经漂移东去很多,天空开始晴朗起来了。
 
3
。马鞍山 (Saddleback Butte)
 
饮食过量,需要运动。看了一下地图,兰开斯特 (Lancaster) 市区边上有个马鞍山州立公园 (Saddleback Butte State Park)。兰开斯特与棕榈谷北邻,市区相连。我们刚才吃自助餐的镇子,兰开斯特地处洛杉矶郡 (Los Angeles County) 最北端,市内最大的企业为爱德华兹空军基地 (Edwards Air Base),轰炸机,战斗机,直升飞机,甚至火箭随处可见。还有,洛杉矶郡城市规划署当年可能计划在此建立大型城镇,每寸土地都经过丈量,即便是空旷的沙漠区,也能看到西170街的路标 (West 170th Street),马鞍山公园就在这里。从市内出发,等于开车跑了170个街口,尽管沿途看到的是沙丘,约叔华树 (Joshua trees) 和风滚草 (tumbleweeds).
 
这样的空旷感还是上次游览约叔华树国家遗址公园 (Joshua Tree National Monuments)有所见识。只有稀稀拉拉的约叔华树斗胆屹立于这沙漠里,沙漠灌木丛看上去奄奄一息,可也坚持了很多年了。沙漠地势平坦,连石头和山丘都很少见。可是公园设有洗手间,停车场,野餐区和露营地。小路松软,不宜快行。惊奇吧,刚刚过去了的阵雨在沙漠里连一丝儿水的痕迹都没有留下,这沙漠就像是厨房的水槽,并带有自动烘干装备一样。一座裸露的岩石名为小山 (Little Butte),算是停车场和马鞍山的中途站。不停地往上走哇,看到几株绿油油的植物,为之一振,爬山更有劲头了。


远眺马鞍山之沙漠景象


到了,上得山顶,放眼东面无尽的沙漠。在这里意识到,那约叔华树国家遗址公园就在这莫哈韦沙漠 (Mojave Desert)的南端,而我现在身处大沙漠的西北角。我说呢,这地貌,这叔华树,咋看上去如此熟悉。
 
下得山来,天已黑净,公园管理员正在四处找我,满脸不悦。公园规定日落关门呢。人在气头上,不愿意接受我手持的州立公园基金会停车证,坚持要现金。他着急关门退缩到自己的掩体里,黑暗里的沙漠似乎多了一分诡异和恐怖。过了一会儿,那人平静了一些,接受了我的州立公园基金会会员身份,开着巨大的卡车在前引路,把我们带出公园。
 
4
。红岩谷 (Red Rock Canyon)
 
在内华达山脉的南端与厄尔巴索山 (El Paso Mountains)相接,接头处有红岩谷州立公园 (Red Rock Canyon State Park),濒临莫哈韦沙漠。公园入口处有鲜红的岩石柱,有罗马古建筑的气派,相当壮观。我们开车进入园内游客服务中心,谷内宽敞,接天连地,只是那岩石的颜色不再鲜艳,结构也平常。

 

红岩谷边沿
 
上得一道山梁,天气晴朗,微风习习,视野阔远。露营地上帐篷粼粼,令人惊奇;这里缺水,植被皆无,我是没有到此露营的欲望。仔细观看,地面上有成片的沙漠向日葵,金色闪烁,仙人掌,和艳红的印第安彩笔花 (red Indian paintbrush);还是遮不住干涸的土色,没有生机。

岩下有帐篷营地 


不到两小时就走人。出来的路上有大好的摄影机会,大红的岩石立柱悬立在高速公路边上。几百万年前,地球火热滚烫,熔岩起伏,形状各异。那熔岩奇迹般冷却成眼前的模样,令人目瞪口呆,难以置信。游客如此稀少,要知道好莱坞曾在这里拍了不少影片的。
 

大红的岩石立柱


地图上标有沙漠乌龟自然活动区 (Desert Tortoise Natural Area),离红岩谷甚近。只是没有任何沙漠龟的影子,只见一座巨大的沙漠湖在与无情蒸发顽强搏斗。巨大的盐田或者硼砂地环绕湖面,四周的大山勾勒出一副辽阔的沙漠景象,别有风情。
 
5
罂粟海洋
 
清冷的早晨罂粟花不会开瓣的,所以我们去了山里,进了沙漠。温度回升,是返回罂粟花区的时候了,毕竟这一路为花而来。
 
沙漠里已经很热了,天空没有一丝云彩,但是羚羊谷还是有风,大块的云彩堆积在地平线上,虎视眈眈。下午130,很多罂粟花儿已经开瓣了,将橙色漫延到山岗谷地。除了罂粟花,大片的沙漠金(desert sunflowers)和紫色苜蓿花 (Owl's Clover)也在山坡谷地争风斗妍。春阳娇艳,直觉身临梦境。没见过波斯地毯织出如此秀美的纹路;没有任何画板能包容这样丰富的色彩。


各色花儿吐艳

早晨出门买了三明治,想好了在花丛里用午餐。坐下来慢嚼细咽,其实是等候气温上升,让更多的花儿开瓣,绽露热烈的笑靥。饭后,沿着山道走了一大圈,走向花儿,走进彩色的山野,拍摄俊美的倩影。
 
说今年的罂粟花甲于往年,此刻还没有达到巅峰期,就已令人眼花缭乱了。

彩绘的大地

北加州也有罂粟,只是今年雨水过于充沛,青草疯长,罂粟花少了许多挥洒的空间,山坡上的花儿星星点点。而羚羊谷地处莫哈韦沙漠边缘,水土不利于青草生长,这就给了罂粟,沙漠葵,和苜蓿花极大的空间,她们就借此潇洒开放,漫山遍野里灿烂。
 
6
。魔鬼碎钵 (Devil's Punchbowl)

一天下来,人有了回旅馆休整的愿望。下午415,再看一处地的时间应该还有。西南方向有雪山,惹人眺望了整整一天了。地图上的一处魔鬼碎钵郡属公园 (Devil's Punchbowl County Park)正好在那个方向。去了,这半小时路程跑得值。只见尖锐的岩石以45度的角度刺破天空,说不好是愤怒还是狂欢,那些石头肯定在时间的长廊里接受了风雷闪电的一次又一次的洗礼。

雪山,石谷

多好的季节,不仅仅因为这里有草青青,花盈盈,更有圣加加布里埃尔山 (San Gabriel Mountains) 的雪峰,给山下的岩石,山谷,树木画一般的背景。我是一路小跑奔下山谷,登上岩石,抓紧拍照。我只能在这里留连半个小时,约好了6点钟吃晚饭,好在我没有迟到。

岩石冲天
 
7。归来
 
第二天没有人愿意吃自助餐了。苹果蜂号 (Applebee's) 还算个好去处,顾客盈门,服务热情,价钱公道,更重要的是饭量也比较合理,味道还算纯正。

剩下的旅程就轻松了。晚上930上床,一时半时没睡着,突然想起明天不见得非要沿138号公路西去到高尔门 (Gorman) 汇入5号高速。今天白天沿14号高速走了个来回,这条路平直,车少,而且和50号高速相接,直通贝克斯菲尔德 (Bakersfield)
 
早餐后,给车加满油,就顺着14号高速直线往北而去。14号和58号都是双线高速,比单线的138号通畅多了。而且58号沿线景色俊秀,车在两座大山间穿行,南有塔哈驰匹山 (Tahachipi Mounains),北有内华达山脉。转眼之间就能看到巨大的风力发电风轮列阵屹立于山颠。那山也太巨大了,一时车像蚂蚁,路像飘带。在进入皮尤特山 (Piute Mountains) 之前,车如一马平川的山间川道,大沙漠的干涸景象一忽间皆无,满眼的山绿地绿,春色依旧。

58号到5号高速开了一段市区,红灯绿灯,然后就高速飞进了。中途去了一家叫做鹿角的餐馆 (Buckhorn Restaurant) 吃了一顿午餐,这是一家专们服务长途卡车司机的吃喝歇脚处,就在罗斯班诺斯 (Los Banos) 北边不远处。下午315到家,又赶上了另一场雨,正好洗剂车上的灰尘。
 
写于201044
译于201045


Desert Flowers

1.     Green March

March came to splash green all over the fields and hills.  Flowers are blooming and birds singing.  Spring Break was the time to go out and greet the magnificent season of spring.  Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve came to mind.  California poppies are native thus deserve a special place.  We had heard it a great deal but never made the pilgrimage to see.  Hotel was reserved three weeks ahead of time.

 Aquaduck Channeling Water for Southern California

We left town before 8:30 in the rain.  However, when Highway 580 took us to Livermore and Altamont Pass, soft morning sunshine came out to grace green hills. It was so glorious that we checked into the Rest Area at the joint of Highway 580 and Interstate 5.  We needed a stop to breathe in the spring air and take in the great greenness of the season.  Not only that, we also checked out the first Vista Point we saw.  The elevated mount enabled us to see expansive green fields and rolling hills.  March and April were most beautiful time in California.  Standing there, I could feel arms and wings (when did I get wings?) were open and flapping. It was so uplifting. The drive took over 6 hours.  When the scenic view was so magnificent, there was not to check into every Rest Area, Vista Point, and Fruit Stand that was open.  Relaxation and rush don’t see each other eye to eye.

2. Wind and Showers

Wednesday traffic was on the light side. Around 2:45, we arrived at Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve as the town was still further east. The forecast didn’t kid us. The wind was practically howling while showers apparently just pushed its way through. California poppies are a sensitive bunch. Their petals wrap around each other like a needle when it is overcast, windy, foggy or cold. Self-preservation has top priority for them precious flowers. Besides the sharp edges of the wind, it was also distressing to see the tattering and shattering of the poppies under dark clouds.  We left quickly, with the idea to come back to see those millions of flowers under bright sunlight tomorrow.

We checked into the hotel in Palmdale around 3:15 in steady rain showers. Then our stomachs started to groan. In the phone book Hometown Buffet seemed to jump out of the pages.  We had frequented this joint in other areas in the past. Hunger glossed over our past vow of not eating any buffet for the rest of our life.  It is always hard to prevent over-eating in a buffet.  When we finally pulled ourselves out, it was only 4:30.  As showers kept retreating to the East as if keeping pace with our advance, the day became brighter in the evening hours.

3.     Saddleback Butte

We needed to work off the extra food taken at the buffet. So, we looked at the map and found Saddleback Butte State Park at the edge of town of Lancaster, connecting with Palmdale in the north. We had our buffed lunch in Lancaster, a town at the north end of Los Angeles County, with Edwards Air Base as the biggest employer.  One could see bombers, fight jets, helicopters and even missiles in many places. Also the Planning Department of Los Angeles County seemed to have mapped out every inch of the land here for urban development.  In largely empty desert, country road took the name West 170th Street. That was where Saddleback Butte located.  Starting from downtown, we drove 170 city blocks to the park, amidst sand dunes, Joshua trees and tumbleweeds.

Not since our visit to Joshua Tree National Monument had we seen so much barrenness! Only a few Joshua trees braved the desert here and there. Desert bushes looked sad, skinny and dying but yet persisting. The desert floor was largely flat as rocks were rare and hills scarce. The park had restrooms, parking lot, and even picnic areas and campground. Trails were sandy and soft so it was hard to go fast.  Amazingly the showers that had just passed left not a hint of water on the ground. The desert worked like a kitchen sink with self-drying functions. A protruding rock was amply named the Little Butte that marked the halfway point between the parking lot and the large Saddleback Butte. I kept charging up to the Butte. A few healthy plants along the steep climb encouraged me to go faster and higher.

Alas! I reached the top of the Butte, with sweeping desert view to the east.  There it occurred to me that the Joshua Tree National Monument was at the south end of the same desert, Mojave Desert.  I was now standing at the Northwest corner of a very large desert. No wonder the landscape and the Joshua trees appeared so familiar.

When I came back down, it was already dark.  The ranger was looking for me, not in good mood.  The park curfew was set at sunset.  When I paid with my State Parks Foundation day pass for the parking, he insisted on cash.  The man was in a hurry to lock up and retire to his barracks as the desert night seemed unspeakably harsh and scary.  Eventually he calmed down and accepted my State Parks Foundation Membership and led the way out of the park with his huge truck.

4. Red Rock Canyon

When the southernmost tip of the Sierra Nevada converges with the El Paso Mountains one could find Red Rock Canyon State Park at the edge of Mojave Desert. The park entrance has bright red rocks in the formation that looks like Roman architecture, simply splendid looking. We drove all the way to the Visitor's Center inside the canyon.  Although it was very spacious and far-reaching inside, it looked dull in color and formation.

We walked up a ridge.  It was a bright day, cool and slightly windy.  The visibility was outstanding.  It was fascinating to see quite a few tents on the campground; but, I would hesitate to camp here due to the absence of water and green vegetation.  Patches of desert sunflowers flashed their enthusiastic gold color under the spring sunlight, along with cacti and Indian paintbrush in flaming red; but, the dominant scene was still bare earth. 

We spent less than two hours there. On our way out, good photo opportunity presented itself as bright red rock formation hanged next to the highway.  Millions of years ago, the earth was hot and boiling; all sorts of materials melted and took on different shapes and forms.  Somehow the hot lava cooled down to the present formation, spectacular and dazzling the eyes. There were so few of us visiting such a wondrous place where many Hollywood movies were filmed.

According to the map a Desert Tortoise Natural Area was not too far away from Red Rock Canyon.  We didn't find any tortoise there but saw a huge desert lake struggling to survive the massive evaporation.  There was an ocean of salt or borax around some water. Still the mountain laced desert view was wide and sweeping. 

5. Poppy Reserve

Poppies don’t open up in chilly mornings; that was why we went away to the mountains and desert.  As the day warmed up, we were coming back to Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve, the main attraction of the trip.

While the desert was hot and cloudless, Antelope Valley still had some wind as huge clouds lurked on the horizon. Most of the poppies already opened up by 1:30 pm.  They spilled up to the hills and into the valleys. Besides poppies, huge stretches of desert gold (sunflowers) and purple owl's clover covered entire hills and valleys.  Under spring sunlight, it felt like I was walking in a dream land.  No Persian rug could weave such intricate patterns.  No canvas was big enough to contain painting so color rich. 

We bought some sandwiches in the morning to have lunch in the pleasant company of flowers. Once there, we took our time eating to let the day warm up so more flowers could sway open and flash their brilliant smiles.  After lunch, we walked a large loop trail to become intimate with all the flowers and colored fields.  Pictures were taken in the hundreds.

It was said that this year's poppies were one of the best crops in years.  Poppy season at Antelope Valley was yet to hit the peak.  But what we saw was already astonishing.

 

There were poppies in Northern California.  Only this year the abundant rain fall seemed to make the grass grow too tall to make room for poppies; only a precious few poppies graced the lush hills.  Antelope Valley is at the edge of the great Mojave Desert so grass doesn't do well there.  This leaves plenty of room for hardy flowers like California poppies, desert sunflowers, and Owl's clover.  So they bloom there heroically, and in great numbers.

6. Devil's Punchbowl

After the morning and afternoon activities, everyone wanted to retire to the hotel, naturally. It was only 4:15.  There was time to squeeze in another park. Snow mountains in the southwest could be seen all day long. Yesterday's showers must have dropped some fresh powders there. The map marked out a Devil's Punchbowl County Park just in that direction. So, I went.  It was half an hour drive but definitely worth the hassle. Pointed rocks stubbornly punctured the sky in a 45 degree angle. Were the rocks angry or celebrating? The only certainty was the rocks were fractured by wind, rain and many storms of centuries. 

The timing was precious, not for all the green grass and wild flowers, but for the fact San Gabriel Mountains had snow on most of the peaks, serving a picturesque background for the rocks, the valley and all the trees. I hurried to run down the valley and up to the rocks to click away with the camera.  Half an hour was all the time I had there.  I was supposed to get back to the hotel around 6 o'clock for dinner, and I came back in time.

7. Homebound

The second night nobody wanted buffet dinner any more.  Applebee's was a good choice, decent crowd, friendly service, fair price and, most importantly, reasonable amount of food properly prepared.

The rest of trip became easy. I went to bed around 9:30 but had a hard time falling into sleep. Then it occurred to me that I didn't have to travel west along Route 138 to find Highway 5 at Gorman.  We had driven up and down Route 14 earlier during the day.  This highway is straight and almost free of traffic, also connecting with Route 58 to Bakersfield.

After breakfast, we gassed up and shot a straight line up Route 14.  Both 14 and 58 had two lanes, in contrast to the single land Route 138. Route 58 offered spectacular scenery as it cut between Tahachipi Mountains on the south and Sierra Nevada on the North. Before long, large wind mills for wind energy stood over the mountain side in terrific formations.  The mountains were so huge that cars were reduced to ant size and highways ribbon-like.  Before Piute

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沙发
发表于 2010-4-6 22:36:53 | 只看该作者

喜欢花地毯, 荒凉的沙漠, 和雪山[:-Q]


  喜欢花地毯, 荒凉的沙漠, 和雪山





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拜晴MM所赐, 帅
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板凳
发表于 2010-4-6 23:58:21 | 只看该作者

大红的岩石立柱,彩绘的大地,雪山,石谷,,,加之优美的《牧歌》,美!![:-Q][@};-]


  大红的岩石立柱,彩绘的大地,雪山,石谷,,,加之优美的《牧歌》,美!!





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地板
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 00:02:32 | 只看该作者

正是出游的季节,不要躲在家里[;)][:-K][:))]


  正是出游的季节,不要躲在家里





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5#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 00:03:30 | 只看该作者

看了以后帮助燕子恢复,心情好就恢复得快[@};-][@};-]


  看了以后帮助燕子恢复,心情好就恢复得快





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6#
发表于 2010-4-7 00:19:43 | 只看该作者

谢谢三公子!现在在燕子眼里一切都是那么美好![:-M][:-M]


  谢谢三公子!现在在燕子眼里一切都是那么美好!





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7#
发表于 2010-4-7 03:44:37 | 只看该作者

赞长篇大作!


能租块花地毯吗?


 

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8#
发表于 2010-4-7 05:55:05 | 只看该作者

[:-Q]问好公子兄,壮观


   问好公子兄,壮观





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9#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 06:03:15 | 只看该作者

地毯好租,搬运费神[;)][:))]


  地毯好租,搬运费神





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10#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 06:04:46 | 只看该作者

人不多,路上车少[:-T][:))]行程1000英里,折1600公里


  人不多,路上车少 行程1000英里,折1600公里





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11#
发表于 2010-4-7 06:08:02 | 只看该作者

大片壮观


  大片壮观





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12#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 06:11:20 | 只看该作者

。。。幸运,感恩,必有后福[:-Q]


  。。。幸运,感恩,必有后福





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13#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 06:12:20 | 只看该作者

沙漠里有兔子跑过,若是猫,非撵上不可[:-K]


  沙漠里有兔子跑过,若是猫,非撵上不可





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14#
发表于 2010-4-7 06:28:43 | 只看该作者

我家上周去Grand Canyon 也跑了1千多迈。


  我家上周去Grand Canyon 也跑了1千多迈。





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15#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 07:07:59 | 只看该作者

该换油了[;)]


  该换油了





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16#
发表于 2010-4-7 08:03:32 | 只看该作者

公子的文字功夫了得!你做梦,说的是英语,还是中文!不要说都在说。


  公子的文字功夫了得!你做梦,说的是英语,还是中文!不要说都在说。





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夏天过去了,
摘下帽子,
光头关公来也!
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17#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 08:06:25 | 只看该作者

梦里说英语居多,有一次梦里(图)


过世的父亲也讲英文,惊得人一个骨碌翻身坐起来


 

 

  本贴由[三公子]最后编辑于:2010-4-7 0:8:22  

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18#
发表于 2010-4-7 09:14:03 | 只看该作者

说梦话, 吓人啊[;)]


  说梦话, 吓人啊





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拜晴MM所赐, 帅
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19#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 09:19:35 | 只看该作者

可能没出声[:-K]


  可能没出声





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20#
发表于 2010-4-7 16:21:46 | 只看该作者

回复:【春之歌IV】沙漠之花……云南大旱。也快成“沙漠”了。三不猴组合明天回去。哈


  回复:【春之歌IV】沙漠之花……云南大旱。也快成“沙漠”了。三不猴组合明天回去。哈




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21#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 21:57:43 | 只看该作者

去年春假游览 Death Valley


新车,到了最远处,突然间响了一声警铃,该换油了,指示灯一直亮着,给人压力。
今年出行路程不算远,没有警铃


 

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22#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-7 21:58:22 | 只看该作者

旅途愉快,欢迎归来,多多休整


  旅途愉快,欢迎归来,多多休整





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23#
发表于 2010-4-9 06:45:00 | 只看该作者

哇,这帖子做得漂亮精彩,要成为经典大片了[:-Q][:-Q]


三GG来了感觉,PP都非常漂亮了。和从前比,
完全变样了 构图不是一般地讲究,文字不是稍微地认真。
最壮观的,还数漫山遍野的红罂粟。
印象深刻的,还有车道从一片绿野和山丘中穿过的景象。

 

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24#
 楼主| 发表于 2010-4-9 07:04:58 | 只看该作者

刚才在院子里拔草,觉得耳朵发热,天黑了,回来一看


天哪,说了这么多好话我那树上的果子熟了,一定给您留俩


 

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